Mostly the information given about that material is something like 100g/m2 (up to 500g/m2…). – Do you have any information regarding the specific weight of the poly-fil you used? I can find “polsterwatte, polstervlies” here in germany but none of the products have a thickness of 1″. It would be nice to just put the sandwich on top of that without having to mount a solid base inside the shell. – Do you think it is definitely necessary to have a solid base for the mylar/poly-fil-sandwich or could it be placed on top of foam (my acoustic drum shells are filled with foam cylinders from the bottom up to about 3.5″ from the top). I would be glad if you could help me out with a couple of questions (some might just be european-specific…) I really love the mylar-as-a-reflection plate idea, seeing that i have the suitable mylar discs already at hand because i cut out cheap mylar heads to use the outer part (the metal ring also cut off) to put under the mesh-heads to protect the drums bearing edges. For example when playing a medium velocity single stroke roll some notes will come out with max velocity, even though they’re played only very slightly stronger. It is hard to make a difference between medium and strong hits when playing. The only problem I still have is that even if I use the Log4 or the Offset curve, the feel is still a bit exponential. Works great, though I had to adjust my Trigger IO to avoid double triggering. So I my sandwich is plywood, poly-fil, drumhead with piezo, poly-fil, mesh head.
#SOUND X SMI 1458 ADPTER PLUS#
And a few layers of poly-fil on top, plus the mesh head. The drumhead has the piezo attached to it with double sided tape.
This head rests on some layers of polyfil discs, supported by a plywood disc held by three l-brackets. My reflection plate was a complete drumhead (including its rim), 2″ smaller than the drum. I have built this with great success yesterday (though in a slightly different way) for an A to E conversion. eDrumming for me is one big experiment, so I am always changing, tweeking, and messing with my designs. I hope people try there own experiments with this system so I am not the only one who knows how good it is. I couldn’t have anything in the cake pan because of how close the mylar sensing plate sits to the bottom of the pan, so I ran the wire out the bottom into a project box. In the pictures you will notice that I had to retro-fit my X4L. You still have bounce, but it is not like a trampoline, it is more like a mylar head. The end result of using a mesh head with my new system really does give you the feeling you are playing on an acoustic drum. The Poly-fil also, does not dampen the bounce as severally as foam. Poly-fil is a lot less dense than foam, this is why I use a mylar disk instead of metal. My new sensing system does not feel like you are hitting foam, because you aren’t.
I think most of us here know that hitting a edrum that has foam behind the head just “feels” bad.
I most also say that it doesn’t feel like you are hitting a foamed back drum trigger. This system is much more sensitive than the old foam-metal-foam style, and it seems it trigger just as good as my Roland cone drums. I know what you are thinking, you’re thinking “The piezo wouldn’t last 1 hour”, but you would be surprised at just how well it works. Layer #3 – mylar disk (yes the same as a drum head) with one 27-mm piezo attached to the bottom with 3M chemical resistant double stick tape. Layers #1 & #2 – 1″ thick Poly-fil batting That works OK, (rolls and flams suffer a bit) but for my way to work I need a little more shell depth. Split the foam in half, attach a piezo to a metal plate of some kind, and sandwich it between the foam halves. Most people when they get into DIY edrumming for the first time, they tend to use the Remo practice pad conversion. The following was originally posted by Hellfire over at :